There are a just a handful of winemakers that I have met whose joy, energy, intention, and personality are palpably transported into the wine they bottle; Bibiana González Rave & Rosemary Cakebread come to mind, along with one who continues to charm me year after year, Kurt Beitler, with his captivating wines from Bohème. Since the first time I tasted his wines several years ago, vintage after vintage his spirit and the exquisitely thoughtful, honest wines he produces have been some of my very favorite wines each and every year. Kurt's love for winemaking begins in the vineyard as his penchant for grape growing is deeply rooted, coming from a long line of grape growers and winemakers in the Napa Valley, with a farming tradition dating back to the 1850s.
The sense of joyful purpose when Kurt talks about farming transcends someone just talking about what they do or even why they do it. There's a sense that even for just a moment, everything is in place in the world, that he is exactly where he is supposed to be, and the world is a better place for having someone like him tend to it; with care, intention, and love.
Nestled up in the hills of Occidental near the Sonoma Coast, Kurt's small operation focuses on single vineyard Pinot Noirs from vineyards that he farms around Sonoma, in addition to a little Chardonnay and Syrah. Given its namesake, Bohème, these wines are an expression of nature's gift and beauty and our reliance on it, human creation, art, and wild freedom. And that's why Kurt loves making Pinot Noir. Kurt says, "Pinot is finicky and somewhat uncontrollable. Like a lover you must be passionate about it to forgive and embrace its shortcomings. But it can show profound beauty, and is unique in nature. You might even say that to grow Pinot Noir requires a certain type of spirit." Ummm...sign me up! Kurt's charming, passionate, and free spirit is evident in the wines he produces. They are vibrant, mysterious, artistic, and wild yet ethereal. And each year so beautifully reflecting the vintage. Just yesterday we were delighted by a visit from Kurt and an opportunity to taste through his new releases from the 2015 vintage. And as always, to sum them up in one word: exquisite.
2018 marks just the second vintage for this reserve coastal cuvée. A premium barrel selection from all of Bohème’s estate grown Pinot Noir vineyards near Occidental, this cuvée includes six Pinot Noir selections grown on three distinct soils. 33% whole cluster fermented then aged 22 months in French oak barrels, 17% of which were new. A bit more masculine than the Taylor Ridge, the Occidental Pinot boasts a medium garnet color with sultry aromas of savory sandalwood, black tea, orange rind, forest floor, minerals and violets followed by dark fruits and wild berries, with a touch of spice and earthiness on the palate. A serious Pinot, the structure of this wine will allow it to age gracefully, but it is also begging to sing now with a decant. 291 cases produced.
