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Notoriously brusque but hugely admired and
loved, Gary Farr has been making wine in the Moorabool Valley in Australia since
1978. This lesser-known wine region is nestled between Geelong and Ballarat,
100km southwest of Melbourne. Grape growing in this region dates back more
than 200 years, with Swiss settlers planting Victoria's first vineyards in
the early 1800s. The rich volcanic soils and continental climate produces
premium fruit with a flavor, bouquet and color that is unique to the
surrounding area. With a deep love for
winemaking and the terroir of the Moorabool Valley, Gary and his wife
purchased their first piece of land in 1994 and the second in 1998--the latter
had been untouched for almost 40 years and consisted of dense boxthorn and
noxious weeds. The final piece of the family's holdings, which links the two
blocks of land that Gary had purchased in the 90s, was purchased by Gary's
son, Nick, and his wife, Cassie, in 2011 creating a total of 130 continuous
acres of which only 36 are planted to vine. The remainder is maintained as
grazing and cropping for cattle and horses. With a mixture of different
clones and rootstocks, the grape varieties grown here are Viognier, Chardonnay,
Pinot Noir, Gamay, and of course, the noble variety.....Shiraz!
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While the landscape
has undergone many changes in the past decades, Gary's approach to wine has not
altered, and it is this fastidious attention to detail that has inspired a
whole generation of vignerons. His experience as a hands-on winemaker was
shaped by his time spent at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, at Cristom in Oregon,
and finally at Calera in California. Gary developed an appreciation for the
beauty of Shiraz and Viognier from his many visits to the Rhone Valley in
France, where he also learned techniques for incorporating these wonderful
varieties into his winemaking. He continues to make pilgrimages to Domaine
Dujac, as he has done for the past two decades, to learn more about the craft
of growing and making wine that is a true expression of site. Today, the reins have
mostly been handed over to the next generation, but Gary, who produced what
legendary wine connoisseur Len Evans called "Australia's best pinot", still keeps
a watchful eye over the barrels to ensure that the wine continues to meet his
high standards. Like his father, Nick also has experience working with international
vineyards, including Cristom in Oregon, Au Bon Climate in California, and
Domaine Dujac in Burgundy. Nick's enthusiasm and passion for wine is
captivating, and an excellent grounding in both the new and old schools of
winemaking is the perfect complement to his individual tastes and ideas. Of his
wines, Nick will tell you that the wines they make are not mainstream--but
instead expressions of their vineyard, their land and what they like to drink, "That
is what we promise to deliver."
The Shiraz (aka
Syrah) comes from the original By Farr Vineyard, planted in 1994 by Gary
himself. It lies on a north-facing slope where the red volcanic soil has a base
of limestone with deep-set sandstone.
All fruit is hand-picked with 20% left as whole bunches in the
fermentation. Most years, Gary and Nick will co-ferment 2-4% of Viognier with
the Shiraz, and the wine is fermented with naturally occurring yeasts. The wine
sees 18 months in French oak, 2% of which is new. This wine has a powerful
nose, with the depth and complexity of cool-climate Shiraz. This wine is spiced
with pepper and mineral elements, leaning towards an incredible earthiness. The
co-fermented Viognier adds a little richness to both the bouquet and the palate,
which has a very pleasant sweetness to start, followed by intense fruit and
earthy long tannins to complete the delicate structure and overall elegance of
the wine. Enjoy alongside any protein
from your barbeque - hamburgers, steaks, chicken, and more! 13.5% abv. 500 cases produced.
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