Copain, which means ‘friend’ or ‘buddy’ in French, is an Estate in the Russian River Valley that focuses on Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Before founding Copain Wines in 1999, Wells Guthrie had been a tasting coordinator for the Wine Spectator where he learned the mechanics of an influential wine magazine. Having been granted access to all limbs of the wine industry, Wells became driven to make wine himself, so he and his wife shipped off to France where Guthrie spent two years apprenticing with prominent Rhône vintner, Michel Chapoutier. Wells worked for Chapoutier for two seasons in both the winery and vineyards learning about the northern Rhône varietals and biodynamics. That education paid off for the southern California native. Upon returning home, he and his wife established Copain and his Syrah’s began to garner top scores from critics. Guthrie was an ascendant star, and his top wines were described as "blockbuster," with "enormous richness and massive fruit extract." There was just one problem: Guthrie found that his own wines shared even less in common with the restrained northern Rhone examples he was weaned on. So when James Atwood of San Francisco's Rose Pistola challenged Guthrie to dial down a bit, the winemaker was game for an experiment. He was willing to trade less ripeness for "more energy" in his wines, even if those wines might be a tough sell.
In 2003 Wells decided to make his first vintage of Pinot Noir, and against the teachings of Helen Turley whom he had worked for briefly at Martinelli Winery where she makes Marcassin, he decided to pick early. This was a wildly untamed decision at that time but was met with great reward. Copain began to garner a new kind of attention, one for old world technique that resulted in Pinot Noirs that were clocking in under 12% alcohol – a revelation! "I did what I thought was best for the wines at the time," Guthrie says. "It turned out to be the best thing I ever did." Copain sold to the Jackson Family Estate in 2015, and the philosophy of the brand is still very much intact thanks to winemaker and general manager Ryan Zelpatas.
The 2016 Pinot Noir is sourced from the Kiser Vineyard, one that Copain has been farming since 2004 and is planted strictly to Pinot Noir. This bottling uses fruit from the En Haut block which translates to “up high” in French, as it sits more than 200 feet higher than the lowest block in the vineyard. The hillside that the vines are planted on has a southwest exposure, allowing the vines to bathe in sunlight from dawn until dusk. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks before transitioning to French oak barrels, of which a judicious 20% is new, to age for 16 months. Leading aromas of rhubarb, plum and clove are immediately enticing, and the palate follows with pomegranate, Bing cherry and sandalwood. Medium bodied with supple tannins, this wine has an elegance about it that is undeniable! 12.5% abv.
