Most often when you think of Napa Valley, you think of Cabernet Sauvignon. Even a large percentage of Chardonnay has been replanted to Cabernet over the last several decades. Cab is King, so they say. However, one such renegade, Reginald Oliver, to the confound of his neighbors, thought differently and planted a Pinot Noir vineyard in the heart of Rutherford out of his love for the Pinot Noirs that Andre Tchelistcheff made famous in the 1940's from the legendary BV1 block in Rutherford not far away.
Originally founded in 1871, El Molino is one of the first wineries in the Napa Valley and remains family owned and operated to this day. Cellar conditions have barely changed since "the early years" and are ideal for the exquisite, limited production of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay using traditional winemaking techniques. The label is the original design introduced in 1871, displaying the Bale Grist Mill, affectionately known as "El Molino." The original winery has since been restored into a house and the original hand dug tunnel leads from one of their barrel rooms to their home.
The property and winery have been under the same family ownership since 1938. In 1978, Reginald and Marie Oliver purchased the winery and the surrounding land (from Reginald’s aunt Nancy who used to help with sales and marketing for Louis Martini Winery). In nearly all cases when a winery is put up for sale the new owners are not family related. Consequently, Reginald moved his family from New York City to this rural property in 1981 and soon began making "table" wine. The same year that the first commercial vintage of El Molino was produced ~ 1987 ~ he also purchased the 68-acre Star Vineyard in Rutherford and began crafting exceptional wines that would soon generate a significant and loyal following among collectors near and far! After Reginald passed away in 2005, his daughter, Lily Oliver and her husband Jon (originally from South Africa) took ownership and both continue to oversee the property, sharing all winemaking duties. Both have extensive backgrounds of making wine at a number of wineries, both domestically and abroad.
They focus on only two varieties, Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir, Burgundian varieties that Lily’s father enjoyed drinking and making. They employ a minimalist approach to winemaking using very small tanks, whole cluster fermentation, some light foot treading for the initial punch-downs and then barrel-fermented using all native yeasts already present on the grapes when they come in to the winery.
Like the Chardonnay, these grapes are harvested at various brix levels resulting in freshness and fruit complexities. Made in a deliberately old-world style using a large portion of whole clusters enhancing structure and focus on tannin, the grapes are then fermented with 100% native yeasts and aged nine months on the lees before being racked. It is then aged for another nine months in barrel, followed by one year in bottle before being release. A beautiful red brick color, this Pinot Noir is a rack full of baking spices, orange rind, cranberry, and red cherry with mineral and cedar notes in the background. Sturdy tannins finish out the high-toned, juicy fruit making a big, yet balanced, insatiable wine. A serious Pinot offering serious pleasure!
