In 1976, the victory of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon over a French Bordeaux in the Judgement of Paris changed the course of the Napa wine industry. Prior to this, Napa was a bucolic scene of diverse farms, orchards, and vineyards planted to a wide variety of fruits and nuts. Once Cabernet was crowned as king, wineries across the valley began to pull out heritage varietals in favor of more lucrative Cabernet vines. As a result, many of Napa’s old varietals are hardly recognized by even avid wine drinkers. Of all the heritage varietals, Charbono has perhaps suffered the most. Once widely planted and highly regarded, it’s since been relegated to obscurity in the last few decades; fewer than 50 acres remain in Napa Valley.
Matt remembers the day when he first was introduced to Charbono. It was a bottling by Francis Ford Coppola to be given as a Christmas gift for family and friends. “I opened it that Christmas and was shocked at how well the wine had held up. Despite endless sleuthing, the grape remained enigmatic. Was it French or Italian in origin? Exactly how many acres remain? If you asked ten different people, you’d get ten different answers,” he recalls. The wine carried such a thought-provoking sense of mystery that Matt guarded this memory of the wine. In 2014, driven by a decade of curiosity, Matt Morris partnered with Benoit Touquette, the acclaimed winemaker behind celebrated brands Realm and Fait-Main, to make a small batch of Charbono as an experiment to see what the varietal could be if given the kind of respect and treatment usually reserved for Cabernet Sauvignon. Thrilled with the results, Matt Morris began his own wine brand celebrating vineyard-designated Charbono.
The role of winemaker has since been passed to the lovely and incredibly talented, Françoise Peschon (Drinkward Peschon, Araujo, Cornell, Vine Hill Ranch, and Accendo). Her relentless efforts across multiple brands – big and small – earned her the title of ‘Winemaker of the Year’ in 2019, awarded by the San Francisco Chronicle! To say she is a talent is a HUGE understatement.
A blend of 57% Charbono, 28% Petit Sirah, and 15% Malbec. Each component contributes in a unique way – the Malbec offers perfumed floral notes with a fleshy midpalate, the Petite Sirah provides the framework and savory aromatics, while the Charbono gives both levity and succulence with flavors of ripe black fruits. The 2018 Heritage Blend opens up with enticing aromas of candied fruit, violets and plums. Behind this lively entry, a broad framework and integrated structure provides balance and intrigue. Floral notes of lavender, iris and pollen are accented with coco nib and savory herbs. With soft tannins and lively acidity, this wine’s mouthwatering juiciness begs for a second glass. - Françoise Peschon
